A Life-Changing Journey in the Holiest City (Varanasi, India)
The Incredible India 5-years before Covid-19 (Part 4)
Varanasi is lord Shiva’s favorite city, thus dubbed as the holiest city in India!
Colorful Saris. Cows in the narrow alleys. Jumping monkeys on the roofs. Parades of dead bodies in shrouds.
Were the first few things which welcomed us after a long 36-hour train ride from Pondicherry to Varanasi.
Indians’ outlook on death is truly fascinating. While plenty of us are frightened to face death, Indians welcome them with open arms.
Hindus believe death is a beginning of a new cycle.
Plenty of people who are waiting for their deaths stay in Varanasi, perform rituals and eventually get cremated.
Hindus believe that the soul stays attached to its body even after its passing, and it can be set free by cremating the body.
Nearly 500 kilograms of wood is required to burn one body!
This holy city has 88 ghats leading to the River Ganga. Most are used for bathing and carrying out religious rituals, while few are dedicated solely as cremation sites.
Manikarnika Ghat is the largest and one of the most sacred burning ghats. On an average day, about 100 bodies are cremated in this ghat alone!
Although, there are some types of people who can’t be cremated: Sadhus (a holy person), children, pregnant women, lepers, and people who are bitten by cobras.
Instead, these people are wrapped in a shroud, tied to a rock, and then dropped into the River Ganga.
Ashes from the cremation are also immersed in the river as part of the ceremony. Some dead cows can also be seen floating or occasionally some deceased human bodies.
Aside from using the river for bathing, it is also used for washing clothes, gargling, and some water sipping rituals!
With all of that being said, the River Ganga is the 2nd most polluted river in the world.
The Indian government and NGOs have implemented numerous action plans and cleanup efforts for the River Ganga, as well as using cow dungs as a replacement for burning woods used in cremations to mitigate the air pollution.
It has puzzled me that it didn’t even smell worse than the Pasig River back home in the Philippines. In fact, it smelled nothing (or probably the time I was there).
What we also loved about Varanasi was the food!
We highly recommend Ganga Fuji Restaurant! They serve freshly cooked local dishes with natural ingredients! The owner was also really friendly and enthusiastic in helping us with what to order, as the huge menu was quite overwhelming!
Friendly tip: Any Indian dish with garlic basmati rice is life!
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The best Lassi in town: The Blue Lassi Shop
Lassi is a yogurt blended with some spices or sometimes fruits. You’ll be having a lot of this yogurt while traveling around India, it’s really good!
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We had an interesting spot while enjoying our lassi. Why? Play the short clips below!
Hinduism is the major religion in India, and cows are believed to be sacred. So a lot of cows are free-roaming! Their meat is not being consumed, but their milk is being drunk or used in cooking.
There are over 5 million stray cows in India and a total of 305.5 million cattle population in 2021!
Although knowing that we were surrounded by dying people and dead bodies in Varanasi, I surprisingly didn’t feel petrified at all.
Visiting Varanasi was the most interesting and eye-opening experience I’ve always cherished. It brought me more awareness about life and death. It’s astonishing how faith can powerfully influence one’s life…and even after-life!
Where we stayed
We stayed at Suraj Guesthouse. It’s only lest than 150m away from Manikarnika Ghat! They only charge ₹500 ($6.80) for a night! They also got a nice roof-top with a great view of the neighborhood.
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Booking.com
How to get to Varanasi
By Train
Take a train to Varanasi Junction railway station (Station code: BSB). The station is only less than 4km away from the ghats. Take an auto-rickshaw to your hotel.
Since some alleys are too narrow, they will drop you off at the nearest spot where you can walk to your hotel.
Check the Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation’s official website for train schedules and online ticket booking
Or you can download the IXIGO app, IRCTC’s official booking partner right on your mobile phone for a more convenient train booking!
By Air
Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport, about 20km away from Varanasi, serves both domestic and international flights. Prepaid taxis are available just right outside the terminal. Price starts at ₹600 ($8.20)
Now, let’s go towards the West and somewhere magical
Disclaimer:
We’re not sure if the hotels and restaurants in the blog are still open due to Covid-19.
Please help us know by writing in the comment box.
Nevertheless, we encourage everyone to support them if ever you visit India as we enjoyed their warm hospitality!
